Trigger set for a Colt Defender

[TFox2112]

Anyone know where I can get a good (not pricey, just better than the factory ) trigger set for a Colt Defender? I know there's got to be something better than the plastic that comes on it. Also, is this something that I can replace myself or will I need to get a gunsmith? Obligatory porn included.

[Walter45Auto]

Brownells probably has a trigger for it, and you should be able to do it yourself. Search online for how to detail strip a 1911. Good luck, and nice piece.

[TFox2112]

Thanks for the info, Walter.
Tom

[Walter45Auto]

You are welcome, and I like the avatar, BTW. Are they your dogs??

[TFox2112]

They are indeed my dogs (I suppose you could call them that...,) although, they would have you believe they are definitely not dogs and are probably royalty to boot. 

[Sponsor]

[PegLeg45]

Anyone know where I can get a good (not pricey, just better than the factory ) trigger set for a Colt Defender? I know there's got to be something better than the plastic that comes on it. Also, is this something that I can replace myself or will I need to get a gunsmith? Obligatory porn included.

As stated earlier by Walter45Auto, Brownells is a good place. You might want to check places like Cylinder & Slide, Wilson Combat, Ed Brown, Chip McCormick...just to name a few.
Most have drop-in sets with springs, hammer, sear, disconnector, and trigger. Or, they sell each seperately.
If you are not familiar with polishing and stoning sears, definitley get the hammer and sear set pre-finished, or drop-in.

If money is a big issue, you can try the old-timers toothpaste trick.

[TFox2112]

As stated earlier by Walter45Auto, Brownells is a good place. You might want to check places like Cylinder & Slide, Wilson Combat, Ed Brown, Chip McCormick...just to name a few.
Most have drop-in sets with springs, hammer, sear, disconnector, and trigger. Or, they sell each seperately.
If you are not familiar with polishing and stoning sears, definitley get the hammer and sear set pre-finished, or drop-in.

If money is a big issue, you can try the old-timers toothpaste trick.

Speak to me about this "toothpaste trick", pegleg.

[PegLeg45]

Speak to me about this "toothpaste trick", pegleg.

When I used to shoot bullseye matches 20 or so years ago, an older fella at the range one day mentioned using toothpaste for trigger smoothing. It works just like jewelers rouge because it has minute polishing agents, but not enough to harm anything if not overdone.
He said to get some some plain toothpaste, like Crest or Collgate (Arm & Hammer with baking soda may be better) and squirt it all down into the working parts of the frame. Then cycle the slide and dry fire it about thirty times.
Then clean it really good and lube everything, making sure to oil the internals, especially the sear and hammer spur.
It should make a difference, unless there are majir burrs on the mating surfaces.

Brownells also sells polishing compounds that can be mixed with mineral spirits and used the same way.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=543&title=POLISH-O-RAY~

Just don't get carried away with too many abrasives.
The best thing is lube and dry firing. Jerry Miculek said once that it takes at least 3000 rounds or dry firning that many times to get a factory trigger to settle in.

Good luck.