Polish 1911 Feed Ramp Polishing

[Thanos]

Okay, this is the deal: Kimber 1911 Warrior, (My wife got it for me ) and it will occasionally not feed the round into the chamber. It gets hung up on the feed ramp. I have read some conflicting articles about how you should/shouldn't polish the ramp and the throat (I think that is what it is called, the part below the feed ramp) Before you even say anything about gunsmithing and polishing steel, I have polished every type of non-hazardous metal known to man and have the proper tools to do this without doing any damage. If I tap the magazine bottom it will put the round up and the slide will move it forward and into the chamber, that is why I think it is getting hung on the ramp. I don't want this to fail me at a critical moment and me be stuck without a working pistol. That would suck.

Nevertheless, I was thinking of polishing it and wanted to get some opinions. Does it improve the feed?

The only rounds I have put in the gun are Magtech 230gr FMC 45ACP, it seems like okay ammo, but kind of cheap looking compared to the hand loads that my dad uses. your thoughts? Thanks in advance

[tombogan03884]

 Try a stronger Magazine spring first, if that doesn't cure it then polish it.

[Fatman]

What Tom said.

http://www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/KimberNF.html

[1911 Junkie]

+3 on springs. I replace the factory mag springs in all my double stack mags, seems to improve reliability.  Never had a problem with single stacks.

If want to see yourself, polish away.

[Thanos]

Try a stronger Magazine spring first, if that doesn't cure it then polish it.

Okay, another question then, they are brand new Kimber magazines. And I should replace the springs?

Also, Should I keep them unloaded for storage?

[Sponsor]

[1911 Junkie]

If you already have what you need to polish the ramp, go ahead, you shouldn't hurt anything.

This is by no means a fix, but if you notice the problem on 1 or all mags, take the problem mag spring out and give it a little stretch. See if that fixes the problem for one or two runs.  The spring will return to its previous strength so if that helped you will definately need to replace them.

I have mags that have been loaded for 3 years that always function when I take them out. If you have reliable mags, rotate them being loaded, unloaded to help preserve the springs.

[MikeBjerum]

#1  Kimber is a top notch company, and I would talk to them before I did anything to the gun for a basic an issue as feeding reliability.  If I understand your posts this is a new gun?  I'd talk to Kimber first!

#2  If I remember correctly Mr. Bane has said a couple things about polishing and how quick it can go wrong.  Someone with a better memory than me, including Mr. Bane himself, may correct me, but I believe I remember an episode with him saying that he should not be allowed to own a dremel due to polishing errors.  Short answer is that you could end up replacing an expensive part with a little too much "shine."

[TAB]

I'd try a Colt mag or a USGI.

I have never had a prob with either that was not my doing.


Also polishing the feed ramp is not something most people can do. If you mess it up, it will cost almost as much to fix as it will to buy a new gun.

[Thanos]

I'd talk to Kimber first!

 he should not be allowed to own a dremel due to polishing errors. 

I will contact Kimber, yes it is a new gun.

I am confident in my polishing ability, I trained as a Goldsmith and Gemologist. My former polishing mistakes cost more than my gun. I would never think of using a "Dremel" tool. I have a $250 variable speed footpedal driven flexshaft with a 1/3 hp motor, Jacobs chuck and felt all cotton sewn polishing buffs with compund that is specific to only stainless steel, nothing else.

[tombogan03884]

I will contact Kimber, yes it is a new gun.

I am confident in my polishing ability, I trained as a Goldsmith and Gemologist. My former polishing mistakes cost more than my gun. I would never think of using a "Dremel" tool. I have a $250 variable speed footpedal driven flexshaft with a 1/3 hp motor, Jacobs chuck and felt all cotton sewn polishing buffs with compund that is specific to only stainless steel, nothing else.

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Personaly I would go even less aggresive than that, white, or gray ScotchBrite, MAYBE red scotch brite. If I could look at it under a microscope/tool makers scope I might go with a ruby stone just around the edge. And just so you know I'm currently working on medical parts with tolerances as tight as +/- .0005 , MOST fire arms tolerances are +/- .005