Glock 19 or 23; 9 mm vs. .40?

[kmitch200]

The Redding G-Rx is only available in .40 S&W.

I've read posts elsewhere that people have used these with good results and feel comfortable doing it. I wouldn't though.
If a piece of brass is so deformed that it needs a special die, it's too far gone for me to load.

What I find more curious is why a subcompact glock barrel from '99 and a compact from '00 don't bulge brass but a target barrel from '05 does.
The serial # isn't an ironclad guarantee to indicate when the barrel was made, just when it was stamped and mated to the frame but I can't imagine that glock would have 7 years worth of G35 barrels stored.
('98-'05)   

on edit: Thanks Robert for the heads up!
I was told bulging 40s were a thing of the past in "later release" 3rd gens.

[billt]

I've read posts elsewhere that people have used these with good results and feel comfortable doing it. I wouldn't though.
If a piece of brass is so deformed that it needs a special die, it's too far gone for me to load.

It's not that the brass is "too far gone". It is the fact that conventional resizing dies cannot completely size the brass down to the rim. The die itself has to have a small radius on the bottom to allow the case to enter it. The shell holder that accepts the case obstructs the lower part of the case from entering the die as well. Add all this up and it becomes nearly impossible to properly resize the case it's full length, down to the rim of the case itself.

With a "push through" type of resizing die this is not an issue because the entire case passes through the die, resizing 100% of it for it's total length. Even the rim will size down if it has been expanded. This process puts the brass under no more strain than a standard sizing die does. It just does a more complete job. With a tapered case like a 9 MM, this type of die cannot be employed. To completely resize it a roller type of resizing die has to be used. These are quite expensive and complicated. So much so the average reloader cannot afford one that would pay off. Commercial reloaders that reload hundreds of thousands of rounds a year can use them, and have them be cost effective.

[kmitch200]

It's not that the brass is "too far gone". It is the fact that conventional resizing dies cannot completely size the brass down to the rim.

Farmer Frank James resized some bulged brass then shot it in his high power, the brass *re-bulged*.
This stuff is getting stressed so hard on the web of the case that is has grown to waaay out of spec.
If a piece of brass looks like this, it is too far gone.
The fact you need a special die should tell you something.

[billt]

Bulging brass from semi auto pistols is nothing new. Especially in Glocks. Throated pistol barrels all bulge brass right at the base, which is very difficult to resize. Especially in full power loads. This brass cannot be brought back into spec by a regular sizing die, because it can't reach the all the way down to the rim. A push through die can and does. It is the only way this brass can be properly resized.

Many times when these push through dies are not used, the result is brass that will not chamber, and the gun will hang up as a result. The push through die makes reloads with this brass fully dependable. That is the goal every reloader should be striving to achieve, regardless of what he is reloading. Using a push through die when resizing full power loads in .40 S&W, is like using a primer pocket swaging tool to remove the crimp in military brass. It's another step that needs to be taken to make reloads with this type of brass fully dependable. The only other option is to throw it away. That's like throwing away money.

[robert69]

As this thread is continuing, my original solution to the problem I think is the best.
Replace the barrel! My replacement is a KKM, but there are other mfgs with quality barrels
available.
It can be a little expensive, depending on options, but the result was fantastic.
Great groups!!!.
No brass issues!!!

[Sponsor]

[billt]

If the gun is a range toy, then I would simply change the barrel. It's the easiest way to increase the longevity of your brass. If the gun is for carry, leave it stock. Throated barrels, like those found on Glocks are there for a reason. They feed with 100% reliability, regardless of the type of ammunition used.

[kmitch200]

If the gun is for carry, leave it stock. Throated barrels, like those found on Glocks are there for a reason. They feed with 100% reliability

None of my Glocks, and none I've shot that others own in any caliber bulge, spindle or mutilate brass. None have ever jammed.
The idea that a glock barrel should be "throated" and bulge brass to be reliable is crazy.
My factory barrels don't do this.
 
I rarely leave a gun stock, even if it's a carry gun. I make changes that help me shoot more accurately, faster and test for 100% function with any ammo I can find.
The only guns I have left stock are a couple of rimfires and 1 Sig. The rest have all been worked on and I have & would carry any of them.

[billt]

None of my Glocks, and none I've shot that others own in any caliber bulge, spindle or mutilate brass. None have ever jammed.

Nor have mine with most ammo. None have ever jammed, period. But I've fired +P and +P+ ammo in both my .45 ACP and 9 MM Glock's, and they both showed slight bulging at the rear of the case. Most all Major Power Factor 9 MM loads will show it. Some more than others. It stands to reason if you can see past the rim of a chambered round, it is going to expand because of no support in that area. The only way around it is to shoot revolvers.

[2HOW]

My G-22 which I owned for 17 years never had a brass problem and ate everything.

[TAB]

i have seen more then my fair share of glock failures,  limp wristing is a very big prob with glocks, so is hanging heavy stuff on the rail and bluged reloads.  Its like every thing else.