Glock Springs\Guide rod

[Ksail101]

Whats up everyone. Sorry I have not been able to be on here much in the last 8 months but been real busy trying to get a real job. I am only temp at my job so I have been trying to put in a lot of extra effort to show I am worth it and needed to I can get a permanent job. I just want you all to know I havent forgot about you or trying to no be on here. I get on any time I can. But usually it is not long. I get home and I am whooped from the day and just want to relax with my dog on the couch. And any free time I am at my cabin in Eastern WA were there is hardly phones let alone internet. But I love it there.

With that out of the way the real reason why I am writing on here.

I have a Glock 19 and am about to hit the 2000 round mark. (I know its not alot for having it for almost 2 years. I shoot the Kimber and rifle alot.  ) Anyway when should I get a new recoil spring.

With the 1911 the specs and time limit on springs is pointed out in just about any article written so I think we all know when to replace those. Also the springs on a 1911 are so vital to the function it is always a topic.

But it seems with Glocks it is never really talked about. The recoil spring has to be changed with the Guide rod from what I can tell. So when do I do this? And does anyone have any experience with a good product? Am I right that you have to chance both spring and guide rod or is there a way to get it off?

Also what about the trigger spring or the spring that is in the striker??

Thank you

[dj454]

With that many rounds I would do it now. If you get a stainless guide rod and wolf recoil spring it comes with a new striker spring. I use the wolf 22lb on my Glock 20 and I love it. After the initial investment for the guide rod the springs are pretty cheap and I would do it once a year.

[fightingquaker13]

Personally I disagree with the above advice. I would buy nothing but factory. It works great and is reliable, why mess with it? You're not trying to trick out a 1911 target pistol here. Its a good enough at 20 yards SD gun. The factory stuff works just fine and pretty much every PD in the nation agrees with me. As far as replacing the spring, I had my G17 for 15 years and never replaced anything other than the rear sight when I knocked it loose (operator error). Other than that it worked fine. Unless or until you start noticing problems with your slide action, loading, ejecting etc., I'd leave it alone and enjoy a great pistol.
FQ13

[m25operator]

You guys are going to question this one, but it is true, and I am a Glock armorer.

The test, with your Glock unloaded of course, checked 3 times and then in the preloaded condition, that means you've cycled the slide and it is ready to shoot, but with an empty chamber, point the muzzle straight up, and press the trigger but not enough to fire, if you fire, cycle again, notice the movement of the slide, it will slide to the rear when the trigger is pressed, if it moves more than 1/8" replace the recoil spring assembly, or if you want to experiment, get a wolffe spring, cut the keeper off the plastic guide rod and go. I have successfully removed the keeper at the end of the guide rod, but you have to work slowly and a hair drier will help get the plastic soft, use a dental pick to remove it. The only advantage of the keeper is that it makes it a captured spring and is nice for disassembly and reassembly.

Now why?? A long time ago I'm pretty sure J.D. Jones of Magnaport fame, was hunting, and was shooting nearly straight up and his Glock no go bang. The glock fire control system is balanced between the recoil spring and the trigger spring versus the firing pin spring. With a worn recoil spring and pointed straight up,  the act of pulling the trigger, pulled the slide back enough to engage the safety plunger and block the firing pin. Basically pulling the pistol out of battery. When level or pointing down, the weight of the slide gives the extra help.

Even with this condition present, if your shooting as normal, level or down, the pistol will probably be 100%.

Try this test on your Glock and see what happens. How many of you bite this time??

[DonWorsham]

The slide on my G26 does not move when I try this.

[Sponsor]

[MAUSERMAN]

So what is the life span of 1911 recoil springs.

[dj454]

You guys are going to question this one, but it is true, and I am a Glock armorer.

The test, with your Glock unloaded of course, checked 3 times and then in the preloaded condition, that means you've cycled the slide and it is ready to shoot, but with an empty chamber, point the muzzle straight up, and press the trigger but not enough to fire, if you fire, cycle again, notice the movement of the slide, it will slide to the rear when the trigger is pressed, if it moves more than 1/8" replace the recoil spring assembly, or if you want to experiment, get a wolffe spring, cut the keeper off the plastic guide rod and go. I have successfully removed the keeper at the end of the guide rod, but you have to work slowly and a hair drier will help get the plastic soft, use a dental pick to remove it. The only advantage of the keeper is that it makes it a captured spring and is nice for disassembly and reassembly.

Now why?? A long time ago I'm pretty sure J.D. Jones of Magnaport fame, was hunting, and was shooting nearly straight up and his Glock no go bang. The glock fire control system is balanced between the recoil spring and the trigger spring versus the firing pin spring. With a worn recoil spring and pointed straight up,  the act of pulling the trigger, pulled the slide back enough to engage the safety plunger and block the firing pin. Basically pulling the pistol out of battery. When level or pointing down, the weight of the slide gives the extra help.

Even with this condition present, if your shooting as normal, level or down, the pistol will probably be 100%.

Try this test on your Glock and see what happens. How many of you bite this time??
This test is what got me to replace the factory spring on my Glock 20. The slide would not even come close to going in battery. Also the factory Glock spring was way too weak for the 10mm. I had to chase brass 25-30 feet and the brass would be severly dented and would leave brass on the slide. I switched to a 22lb wolf spring and hot 10mm loads only send the brass 5-10 feet and no more dings in my brass. I believe a recoil spring is a maitainence item over looked on an auto pistol like shocks are on a car. As they wear you become used to the decreased performance until it is really bad. I really would replace recoil springs once a year with that much shooting. Even if you stick with factory springs they are cheap insurance for a reliable handgun. Some people don't think you need to change oil in a car either but keep it up and wait for a failure.