Ultimate gun lube?!?

[langloisandy]

Oh cool...Ed's Red!

I just used a few ounces on an AK that I snagged. That gun had a pile of caked up commie-ammo detritus in it, the barrel looked like a smooth bore from the baked on powder. NOTHING was touching this stuff but a quick soak with Ed's Red got the big chunks off and cleaned the barrel nicely. Two Thumbs up on it.

As an aside, I am contantly testing lubes (and what people use for lubes) while not empirical and scientific (usually I take a few 1911s apart, clean and lube with unusual things, KY, Vaseline, CLP, Grease etc etc Sometimes I even use gunlube!).  Normally I cold weather test them as it gets a tad chilly here in Vermont.

TW25 appears to work ALWAYS... Synthetic Motor Oils are equal to (cold weather). Be it Amsoil/Mobil1/Redline/Royal Purple, all have been to sub-zero (usually -20 or so) and work. I'll have to assume they lube ok because my guns all work under pressure and get dirty.

As of late the Loob O' the Day is SLIP2000 , this stuff is pretty damn cool. It is NOT marketed as some wonder-oil but as a lube that works, it does.  I snagged a box full of the lubes/greases and cleaning supplies. EWL lube, Copper cleaner, and Carbon Cleaner,also a tub of grease. The carbon cutter made fast work of the AK piston, AR bolt and flashider, and was pleasant to use and NOT noxious. The copper stuff smells like all the others and works as advertised. The oil stays in place with a bit of creep to get into those nooks and crannies and makes even the most rough gun feel acceptable.(think AK). 

I am using this exclusively on the new Para Ord GI Expert (FYI This 1911 is a winner!) and will report in from time to time on how it works, ease of cleaning, corrosion etc.

Back to TW25, this is one of my favorite lubes, I love the grease. It works on ALL my guns down to sub-0 weather.
NON-Gun anecdotal loob stuff: I use TW25 on one of my sewing machines, the one that sews through an inch of leather. This is a high horsepower machine, it takes alot of force and power to sew through this stuff...it WILL sew through plywood! As a former mechanic (I owned a garage at one time) I am VERY maintenance intensive on my tools. I started TW25 on the high stress areas (and a high quality synthetic for the oil system, yes, it has an oil system!). Some of the parts are designed to wear away and be adjusted to close gaps/clearances. After 7+ years and a MILES and MILES of thread I have yet to need to adjust these points. There is no appreciable wear on the cam lobes nor shafts. Good stuff.  The same lube rides on my strap cutter (cuts 10+ straps in one pass) and the bronze bushing show no appreciable wear on the factory crosshatching/hone. TW 25 has created a barrier of lube between the shaft/bushing that cannot be forced away by shafts cutting 1/8-1/4"+++ leather under severe loads.

Back to gun loooooooob!

I know gent using Vegetable Oil on his 1911, he has had no issues. Go figure....



Andy

[Rastus]

Good reply Andy.  I still need to order one of those saps paperweights from you.  With the new college tuition...it's looking like December now.

Anyway, I like to start my guns on Remington dry lube coated down and rubbed in.  Then I apply Remoil, CLP, gun butter or the like.  I'll have to look down at the range today..I bought something from them that seems to work really well, but the label wore off rolling around the bed of the truck.  Back to it, whether right or wrong, whenever I clean I go back together with parts cleaned by solvent, dry teflon lube (Remington), then an oil.  I figure the dry teflon in first helps...seems to....maybe my imagination, but I feel more confident doing it this way.

Now go back to the veggie oil Andy spoke about....whatever lubes probably works without a whole lot of difference in gun wear...it's what makes you feel best about your weapon.....so I'm sticking with solvent cleaned dry teflon surfaces followed by oil.

[langloisandy]

Rastus,

Yep, if it works, USE IT! I always test my stuff before putting it to use on the street as a CCW/Duty gun, I have seen a few untested oils gel. VERY bad!

re: SAP er..uh..."paperweight". Just tell me what you want and when! I make them weekly. (*note: I take swaps too, gun stuff, gear, might make it easier to afford with tuition and all!)

Andy

Good reply Andy.  I still need to order one of those saps paperweights from you.  With the new college tuition...it's looking like December now.

Anyway, I like to start my guns on Remington dry lube coated down and rubbed in.  Then I apply Remoil, CLP, gun butter or the like.  I'll have to look down at the range today..I bought something from them that seems to work really well, but the label wore off rolling around the bed of the truck.  Back to it, whether right or wrong, whenever I clean I go back together with parts cleaned by solvent, dry teflon lube (Remington), then an oil.  I figure the dry teflon in first helps...seems to....maybe my imagination, but I feel more confident doing it this way.

Now go back to the veggie oil Andy spoke about....whatever lubes probably works without a whole lot of difference in gun wear...it's what makes you feel best about your weapon.....so I'm sticking with solvent cleaned dry teflon surfaces followed by oil.

[r_w]

Ed's Red is one of my FAVORITE penetrating oils.  It is great for restoring antique cars and tractors.  It cleans the baked on oily dirt crud that builds up on an engine that spent most of its life on dirt roads or fields. 

There isn't a lot of lubricity in that mix, though. 

[Kid Shelleen]

I guess that I'm just an old stick in the mud.

I'll just keep cleaning my guns after every use and applying a little RemOil. It's always worked for me, besides I like cleaning guns almost as much as shooting them.

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