Author Topic: Getting started...  (Read 18015 times)

les snyder

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Re: Getting started...
« Reply #30 on: April 08, 2012, 08:01:44 PM »
there are a couple of versions... for small volume non commercial users typically two slightly off parallel plates one of which moves ... for large commercial operations... a rotating hub with a "french curve" side rail ....

you might be happier with a case feeder on a 550... or a second 550, or one set up for small and one for large primers, rather than moving up ... like the earlier comment, go to the Brian Enos forums

Magoo541

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Re: Getting started...
« Reply #31 on: April 15, 2012, 10:20:10 AM »
So I took a trip to the range yesterday to run some rounds through my XDM through a chrono graph.  With an OAL of 1.270" (Lyman Manual) I experienced numerous FTF or more accurately Failure to fully chamber.  I did manage to get about 30 rounds of the 3 loads I have and found that with 5 grains of Bullseye I was at or slight above the test barrel in the manual (manual-803 fps, I was 808-836 for 5 rounds). 

As for the FTC I did chamber check a few rounds and notices the round wouldn't seat without some assistance but figured it would be fine.  I was wrong, my XDM is happy with an OAL of 1.230".  So I ran the rest of the rounds back through the seating die to an OAL of 1.220" and had no issues with the 2 dozen or so that I checked in my chamber.

On a side note I did get the turret moving, it just took a bearing puller to reveal a bit of rust in between the turret and the stud.  A little emery cloth and a thin coat of grease on moving services. Now I can set the dies once and index through them  ;D
He who dares wins.  SAS

robert69

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Re: Getting started...
« Reply #32 on: April 16, 2012, 12:34:36 AM »
Welcome to reloading.
I have found Universal clays powder to be excellent for .45acp.  I also use AA-5, but its a little dirty.
I like 200 grain bullets for the .45 acp.  I usually load jacketed bullets.  I used to cast, and I still have all of the equipment, but if you want to shoot cast bullets, you can purchase quality bullets, and not have all the work, and grief of casting.  Bullet material is getting expensive, and wheel weights are not of the quality they used to be.  They have alot of zinc in them.
Carbide sizing dies are the only way to go for pistol rounds.  No lubing.  Just clean your brass if its dirty.
I have 2 vibratory polishers that I use for the brass, that I run the brass in after all the sizing is done, and the primer pockets are cleaned.  Use the Lyman ground up green corn cob media, and you will be pleased.  If you use ground walnut shell, you will need to put a polishing compound in, which creates alot of red dust.  I quit that years ago.
DO NOT PUT LOADED ROUNDS IN TO BE POLISHED, ONLY THE BRASS.
The loading manuals that you were given are way out of date.  If you look at the new manuals, you will find that the newest books list loads that are quite a bit LESS with the poiwder charges.  3 loading manuals, Sierra, Speer, Hornady, are all excellent.  I would suggest the bullet manufactures book for the bullets you are loading.
With regards to any old powder, especially if it is in a metal can, it makes an excellent fertilizer.
The chemicals in the powder will rust the inside of the can, and contaminate the powder.  Put a small amount of the older powder on a white paper towel, rub it around, and see if there is any rust like powder there.  If there is, get rid of it.
I have had to throw out 3 one pound cans of IMR 4320 because of that. 
Good luck, read everthing you can get your hands on, see if you can observe the reloading process with another reloading person, and enjoy the hobby.  I find it to be very relaxing.  Turn the phone off.

Magoo541

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Re: Getting started...
« Reply #33 on: May 27, 2012, 02:26:53 PM »
UPDATE:

So I have made a couple of trips to the range with my reloads, a few of which I have documented here, and spent a couple of hours yesterday using the clubs Chrony to evaluate my loads.  Here is what I found:

First, you must be back about 10' from the Chrony to get it to work (DOH!)

Second, when looking at load data bullet profile is important.  For example you cannot use OAL and powder charge for say a 200g SWC on a 200g RNFP (which there isn't a lot of data for BTW) and expect similar results.

Finally once you have figured all that out, reloading is a lot of fun.

What I found out at the range yesterday is that 3.3g of Bullseye under a 200g LRNFP at 1.200" OAL won't cycle an XDM 45, 3.8g will if you don't limp wrist it like my 16 year-old daughter does, as you push powder charge up the load shoots better and Velocity is not linear.  For example at X grams of powder I got and average of 840fps(Y), at X + .4 grains I got 906 fps (Y+ 66fps) and at X + 1.0 grains I got 962 fps (Y +122 fps).  The hot load actually shot better for me than the others both on paper and on steel as far as accuracy goes.  I'm not sure the recoil difference was enough to affect transitions but once I have access to a timer or shoot some USPSA I'll find out.

Next, I'm going to work up some 230g LRN over some Clays powder to make Major Power Factor for USPSA and see how I shoot it compared to the 200g LRNFP.

The only thing I haven't figured out is how the wife is going to deal with the additional expenditure for componenets as I have been using surplus perdiem from work (I eat like a starving artist, or a cheap SOB, on the road  ;D) to buy most everything so far.
He who dares wins.  SAS

alfsauve

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Re: Getting started...
« Reply #34 on: May 27, 2012, 03:16:15 PM »
Very good Magoo.

A recent copy of Handloader the writer had documented with some of his ammo how at a certain point velocity actually starts going down when increasing the amount of powder.

I get paid mileage in a separate check (not payroll), which I  used for local purchases.  But since most of my bullets are bought on-line, and I have to use a credit card, it's been difficult for the wife not to notice.   I just make sure she see articles about home invasions and such and she's all for having a large stock of ammo on hand.

I posted a question about my Chrony and how far away I should be over on another forum.  The inventor of the modern chronograph himself, Ken Oehler, replied and gave me info, even though "Chrony" isn't his brand.  I was so impressed that the next one I buy will be one of his.

Yes, especially the lower the velocity of the round the further away the screens need to be.   A super sonic bullet can outrun the blast front in just a few feet.   A subsonic one has to go further before it can pass the blast frontal wave.   Just watch some of the slo-mo's on top shot.
Will work for ammo
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Re: Getting started...
« Reply #35 on: Today at 02:45:53 PM »

Magoo541

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Re: Getting started...
« Reply #35 on: May 27, 2012, 04:51:35 PM »
Very good Magoo.

A recent copy of Handloader the writer had documented with some of his ammo how at a certain point velocity actually starts going down when increasing the amount of powder.

I get paid mileage in a separate check (not payroll), which I  used for local purchases.  But since most of my bullets are bought on-line, and I have to use a credit card, it's been difficult for the wife not to notice.   I just make sure she see articles about home invasions and such and she's all for having a large stock of ammo on hand.

I posted a question about my Chrony and how far away I should be over on another forum.  The inventor of the modern chronograph himself, Ken Oehler, replied and gave me info, even though "Chrony" isn't his brand.  I was so impressed that the next one I buy will be one of his.

Yes, especially the lower the velocity of the round the further away the screens need to be.   A super sonic bullet can outrun the blast front in just a few feet.   A subsonic one has to go further before it can pass the blast frontal wave.   Just watch some of the slo-mo's on top shot.

Good stuff.

My next big purchase, or present  ;D, will be some type of Chronograph.  I did a quick search on Ken Oehler and found his website and his Model 35.  Haven't ever seen one for sale but I haven't really looked.  I figure if they are under $250 it would be a great investment maybe even a little more for something that will likely work for the rest of my life at $575 though...it may still happen just not as easily or as quickly, as a cheaper version.

As for the date getting skewed from being to close, uh.... yeah.  I have velocities from 198 fps to the mid-400s for a load that recorded in the low to mid 800s when I stepped back (upset a fellow club member because I was technically off the firing line and I understand his concern).  I found an Excel file someone put together as a reloading Log which I edited to fit my needs (added a Power Factor function for USPSA) and have now become enthralled with the numbers (inner geek peeking through).
He who dares wins.  SAS

robert69

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Re: Getting started...
« Reply #36 on: May 28, 2012, 01:14:56 AM »
I have had a Oehler 35p for about 5-6 years now. I bought it before they discontinued production. They do charge more now, since they did another production run about a year ago.
I bought it after my first chrono went south.
Let me explain that I have been handloading for over 50 years, and the information I get from the Chronograph can really point out what is going on with your loads. A very useful tool.  It may not be absolutely necessary, but I think it is.
I have the complete kit, (with Proof screen and printer) plus one extra screen (you never know when you may need it!).  I also use a medium size, full size rifle case to carry everything as a kit.
Yesterday I chronoed 200g Montana Gold in my Kimber Grand Raptor II with 8.7 grains of AA5, to get 950fps.
My Springfield XDM .45 match did 947fps
Factory Winchester ranger, 230 grain in the Kimber went 924fps, the Springfield went 940fps
I have two Savage 12BVSS's in 22-250, 26 inch heavy barrel.  I shot both of them Saturday to test out a load that I can reload for both of the rifles.  The first rifle COL is 2.460, the second COL is 2.450.  Sierra lists the COL at 2.350.  By setting the COL to 2.430, I can load one load for both rifles.  The load is 35 grains of IMR 4320, a load that I have been shooting for years in my 22-250's, with a Sierra 53 grain HPFB.  All of my rifles shoot the 53 grain better than the 52 grain HPBT.  Anyway the velocity in both rifles is 3532 in the first, and 3562 in the second.  The COL of 2.350 shot decent, but the COL of 2.430 (which gives .020 jump in one rifle, and .032 in the other rifle) shot GREAT!.  1/2" groups (8-10 rounds), with a velocity variation of 18fps, and a SD of 0007. 
Now I would know that they shot great, and with the pressures not hot (primer observance, and micing the cases), but the velocity, the consistancy are determined with the chrono. With the known velocity, I can determine and plot the trajectory. The chrono is a great tool to have.
Granted, I do not take it to the range all the time (It rains here in Western Washington), and I DO NOT let other shooters use it, but I think that it is one of the best tools that a handloader can have. I do not load my loads up to the Max.  It is hard on equipment, and really does not shoot as well as a slightly reduced load.
A velocity of 3550fps is warm, and very accurate with the bullets that I use, and the barrel is much easier to clean after shooting.
Besides, I hit ground squirrels out to 300 yards, and even with a 18 power scope that can be a challenge.
The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.
Just my two cents. 

Magoo541

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Re: Getting started...
« Reply #37 on: May 28, 2012, 09:02:50 PM »
Thanks Robert, that is were I would like to be one day, but since I just started reloading at the age of 40 in 50 years I'll be loading stuff more for fun than, well, for fun  ;D

I agree that a Chronograph is necessary.  Maybe not for the average shooter but I spent 15 years as a machinist and the last year as a manufacturing engineer and have learned that measuring everything will tell you what you need to know as well as stuff you probably don't want to know.

I'll be shooting some 3 gun matches in the future so I'll expand my caliber repertoire to at least .223/5.56 and .308/7.62.  Yes I served in the Army, last unit was the 4th ID, and these are military calibers and I have much more experience with them than other stuff (except maybe 22LR) so I'm staying in my comfort zone-for now  ;)

He who dares wins.  SAS

Magoo541

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Re: Getting started...
« Reply #38 on: June 09, 2012, 09:23:43 PM »
So I shot my first USPSA match this weekend at my local club using my reloads.  Not a single problem with over a 160 rounds.  I shot a lot better than I thought I would and even "cleaned" the last 3 stages without a Miss or a No Shoot.  Not all Alphas but nothing I would blame on my ammo, its the idgit behind the trigger. 

Thank you all for your help.  I have my first 1000 rounds reloaded and need to find some more cash for bullets  ;D
He who dares wins.  SAS

alfsauve

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Re: Getting started...
« Reply #39 on: June 09, 2012, 10:00:59 PM »

..... need to find some more cash for bullets  ;D


Yes, an ongoing problem.   I may, single-handedly, be responsible for the demise of USPS Flat Rate shipping, with my monthly orders.

Will work for ammo
USAF MAC 437th MAW 1968-1972

 

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