Handloading for assult rifles

[Badgersmilk]

GOOD INO.!  I'm really curious what it may be about your one rifle that'd cause it to shoot "slow"...  Barrel diameter way on the large side of the tolerance?  I'm trying to think of what else may cause that.  I'm quite sure you'd have noticed any problems with the chamber (what I can already tell I'm SURE you'd have noticed discolored brass!)

There are many "telling" signs when your getting even close to a high pressure load.  A FEW of the things I look VERY close for are flattened primers (around the outside edge), or when pressures are getting high I've noticed the primer will actually show marks on it imprinted from the face of the bolt, coloration of the brass, unburned powder, excessive residue when cleaning the barrel (could be from many causes if your not familiar with that particular barrel / load), accuracy of the loads as they seem to "cross a threshold" (I've seen loads get more and more accurate as the powder load increases, then they all the sudden the accuracy falls back off).  Stuff like primers that are pushed back around the firing pin, "waves" or warped brass, discoloration, and much more, are ALL signs that you'd better stop shooting RIGHT NOW!  Those loads are NUTS!  I've found cases at the range with pierced primers...  No blood on the ground.  Guess the guy was lucky that day!

I think you've had more than your fair share of bad experience with factory barrels.  I FULLY understand your opinion!  But I've seen some factory barrels shoot REALLY NICE!  The biggest variance is from mass production companies (Rem, Ruger, Win., all of'em) over using their tooling.  If you can find a barrel that was produced shortly after tooling change thats where you'll get your "sub zero" rifle from.  Unless your toteing a borescope to the store, its mostly luck of the draw.

Give that factory barrel a fighting chance.  Try cleaning up & chamfering the flash holes on both sides, put few "A" batch rounds through her with a cold bore and see what she'll do!  "cold bore" may be the trick your looking for!  If she starts thowing rounds as she heats up its cheap to get it cryogenically treated (my local shop will do it for $50).  I've seen it make a skinny factory barrel on a Ruger outshoot a heavy bull barrel on the same gun! (yes, it was only a 10/22, but does that matter?)

[Thanos]

I don't know what an "Assault Rifle" is...

I know what an automatic rifle is though.

[Badgersmilk]

I couldnt have any lower of an opinion of "automatic" rifles.  Well "full auto" rifles anyway.  Full auto combined with a light weapon is nothing but a waste of ammo to better than 9 in 10 people.  Most people will want to argue (waste of time).  It's great for an M60 or similar platform!  If your man enough to carry one of those with several hundred rounds to buzz through, and can keep it on target...  I hope your on my side of the fire fight!  Anyone shooting that thing paints one heck of a target on themselves!!!  Give it to the biggest guy you dont like I guess.

My personal thoughts of an "assault rifle" would be along the lines of a gun with 18"'s of barrel or less, NO WOOD, semi-auto with burst option is sweet!  A reliable action design is a must, a flash hider, iron sights, and it should SURELY hold no less than 10 rounds (I only go that low to include SKS's).  Given an kind of choice I'd pick 20rnd mag's, and oh yes, a MUST, 30 caliber!

[Woody]

 My Bushy defense rifle likes 25 grs of BLC-[2] under 69 grs. 26 gr of Varget /69.  25 gr Re-15/69. 1:9 twist

[Combat Diver]

I reload for my autoloading rifles but since I'm down range I don't have my reloading logs books handy.  I've loaded for
.223/5.56  62gr FMJ/69 gr BTHP for 14.5" and 16" AR15 carbines (1:7 and 1:9)
7x57 139/175 gr FMJ for FN49 (adjustable gas systerm)
8x57 170 gr PSP/196 FMJ for G43
.30 USC/7.62x33 110 FMJ/JRN for 18" M1 Carbine
.308/7.62x51 150 gr FMJ for 18" FAL (adjustable gas systerm)
.30-06/7.62x63 150 gr FMJ for M1 Garand
just got some 7.62x39mm dies last year but haven't had a chance to use them yet for my SKS.  I use my reloades for hunting/plinking & matches.  For STHF use I stick to factory loads.

For reference US 7.62x51 M80 ball is 147/150 gr FMJ flat base
7.62x51 M852 is 168gr BTHP, M118 is 173 gr FMJ and M118LR is 175gr BTHP

for the .30-06 loads and approved for use in all M1 Garands
M1906 150 FMJFB
M1 172gr FMJBT
M2 150gr FMJ
M2 AP 165gr AP
M25 Tracer 145gr
M72 Match 172gr FMJBT

[Sponsor]

[billt]

Sorry, you are mistaken.The only way to increase velocity is to increase pressure.

Within the parameters of a single given powder yes. But there are many powders that will produce a higher velocity with slower burn rates, that achieve a lower overall pressure curve. This is true in shotshell loads as well.   Bill T.

[tombogan03884]

Within the parameters of a single given powder yes. But there are many powders that will produce a higher velocity with slower burn rates, that achieve a lower overall pressure curve. This is true in shotshell loads as well.   Bill T.

Thats based on work Hiram Maxim did in the late 1800's and early 1900's. He discovered that the burn rate was governed by the coarseness of the nitre in black powder. Finer grind made the contained oxygen available more rapidly which led to higher pressure. A more course grind led to a slower burn rate leading to the same or higher velocity over the length of a rifle barrel while generating lower chamber pressures.