Author Topic: Cleaning and Lubes  (Read 23994 times)

JdePietro

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Re: Cleaning and Lubes
« Reply #10 on: June 06, 2009, 09:53:15 am »
Eezox is about $8 USD for a 12 oz spray can at my local gunshop.
RP MaxFilm or Syn32 (if you get the bottle) is about $3 bucks for 6 oz. <-- By the way automotive product :o
Slide Glide is about $12 for a tub that will probably last longer than you own the firearm.

Total for all three $23 USD.  ??? spensive  ???

In most cases I trust my life to my firearms and for that reason I sleep soundly at night knowing that I test and use only the best. Yes I have tried Mobil 1 and Lucas Oil and ATF. And while the anti friction properties are there they are a pain in the shorts to clean and if over applied they will turn to a blackish gook and jam up the firearm.

I am not a spokesmen for these companies, I only attempted to share the results of my trials with the products and my experiences. If motor oil works for you GREAT!!! I tried that route early on and didn't like it.
How vain it is to sit down to write when you have not stood up to live.
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Hazcat

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Re: Cleaning and Lubes
« Reply #11 on: June 06, 2009, 09:59:36 am »
JP,

No one is jumping on ya.  And I use Gun Butter myself on most of my firearms. 

We just like to kick this subject around, sorta like 'should I break in a new barrel".  SURE to have a 'fun' discussion!  ;)
All tipoes and misspelings are copi-righted.  Pleeze do not reuse without ritten persimmons  :D

tombogan03884

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Re: Cleaning and Lubes
« Reply #12 on: June 06, 2009, 10:03:19 am »
Besides, It is good to have the info available not just for new shooters but unpaid experience for the rest of us.

JdePietro

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Re: Cleaning and Lubes
« Reply #13 on: June 06, 2009, 02:54:55 pm »
Maybe I did come off sounding a little defensive, my apologies.

I totally understand the snake oil argument, how many companies make a product and claim it is the end all to gun cleaning needs? I've read and tested maybe a dozen or so different brands of products that claim to offer superior this and best that. No, my "tests" are not the official ball bearing or metered, measured varity. Often I just go out find a couple of buddies that are willing to share their honest opinion while we rack, slide, and shoot various firearms of various types and come to a conclusion that often times varies between individual people.

For the rust protection catagory I just use nails and salt water. Nothing high speed or fancy.
I certainly don't expect people to take my word as if it come from some ordained power, just offering up the conclusions that myself and others have come to with certain products, so that and about 50 cents oughta get you a pack of gum.

 ;D
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billt

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Re: Cleaning and Lubes
« Reply #14 on: June 06, 2009, 03:09:53 pm »
I don't think there is anything "wrong" with these high priced gun oils and greases. In fact some of them may offer very good lubrication and rust and corrosion protection. I just think that from a cost standpoint, when compared to conventional petroleum oils and greases, there really isn't much, if any difference. At least not enough to detect in the lubrication and longevity of firearms, which aren't that difficult to keep properly lubed and running. This is one of those things like adding "Prolong" to the engine of your new, expensive truck. If it makes YOU feel better to use it, then by all means do so. That itself makes it worth the extra cost. Peace of mind in todays world isn't that easily achieved. If using a given product helps you to do so, that alone makes it worth it.  Bill T.
A recent study has shown 1 out of 3 liberals are as stupid as the other 2.

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Re: Cleaning and Lubes
« Reply #15 on: Today at 10:49:46 am »

deepwater

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Re: Cleaning and Lubes
« Reply #15 on: June 06, 2009, 03:14:26 pm »
Maybe I did come off sounding a little defensive, my apologies.

I totally understand the snake oil argument, how many companies make a product and claim it is the end all to gun cleaning needs? I've read and tested maybe a dozen or so different brands of products that claim to offer superior this and best that. No, my "tests" are not the official ball bearing or metered, measured varity. Often I just go out find a couple of buddies that are willing to share their honest opinion while we rack, slide, and shoot various firearms of various types and come to a conclusion that often times varies between individual people.

For the rust protection catagory I just use nails and salt water. Nothing high speed or fancy.
I certainly don't expect people to take my word as if it come from some ordained power, just offering up the conclusions that myself and others have come to with certain products, so that and about 50 cents oughta get you a pack of gum.

 ;D

don't worry JDP, we really do appreciate your input. just remember, here we argue about everything, kinda like a disfunctional family, can't say black without someone arguing about it being white, you know... anyway, though we learn from your experience, it also opens up a discussion where many of us have different opinions and want to share our own experiences, and of course humour..  :D
YOU CAN TEACH A MONKEY HOW TO RIDE A BICYCLE: BUT YOU CAN'T TEACH HIM HOW TO FIX IT!!

twyacht

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Re: Cleaning and Lubes
« Reply #16 on: June 06, 2009, 04:58:17 pm »
Shoot, clean, lube, ,....repeat....

Firearms, like women, love attention.  ::) As long as their maintained, loved and fondled, and not put up wet, they will outlast us all, and be passed down to our sons, daughters, other family members, etc,..

My old .410 bolt action, keyword "old" has been happy with Hoppe's No. 9, and Brite-Bore gun oil, since long before I inherited it. Still has a smooth action and runs like a swiss watch.

Grampa used Aero-Kroil, Marvel Mystery Oil, and some other stuff from his hydraulic shop I can't recall,  I still use it from time to time. My Mauser is 108 years old, and hits what its pointed at. Who knows what it was cleaned with before my Grandfather "got it".

My newer ones, get more attention, and whatever someone's "favorite" cleaner, lube, oil, doesn't matter, as long as its routinely used and maintained like anything else.

Thanks for the post Jde, great information, and well worth the time to post.

We're all of like minds here when it comes to taking care of our firearms, brands are like what's better a Mercedes or Lexus? Both are great, and that's what makes this forum a great place to be.

Different ideas and products with the same end result: a well maintained and utterly reliable firearm.

Tom W.

Thomas Jefferson: The strongest reason for the people to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against the tyranny of government. That is why our masters in Washington are so anxious to disarm us. They are not afraid of criminals. They are afraid of a populace which cannot be subdued by tyrants."
Col. Jeff Cooper.

Hazcat

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Re: Cleaning and Lubes
« Reply #17 on: June 06, 2009, 06:00:57 pm »
Shoot, clean, lube, ,....repeat....

Firearms, like women, love attention.  ::) As long as their maintained, loved and fondled, and not put up wet, they will outlast us all, and be passed down to our sons, daughters, other family members, etc,..

My old .410 bolt action, keyword "old" has been happy with Hoppe's No. 9, and Brite-Bore gun oil, since long before I inherited it. Still has a smooth action and runs like a swiss watch.

Grampa used Aero-Kroil, Marvel Mystery Oil, and some other stuff from his hydraulic shop I can't recall,  I still use it from time to time. My Mauser is 108 years old, and hits what its pointed at. Who knows what it was cleaned with before my Grandfather "got it".

My newer ones, get more attention, and whatever someone's "favorite" cleaner, lube, oil, doesn't matter, as long as its routinely used and maintained like anything else.

Thanks for the post Jde, great information, and well worth the time to post.

We're all of like minds here when it comes to taking care of our firearms, brands are like what's better a Mercedes or Lexus? Both are great, and that's what makes this forum a great place to be.

Different ideas and products with the same end result: a well maintained and utterly reliable firearm.

Tom W.



Wow, that takes me back,  ;)
All tipoes and misspelings are copi-righted.  Pleeze do not reuse without ritten persimmons  :D

m25operator

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Re: Cleaning and Lubes
« Reply #18 on: June 06, 2009, 06:54:05 pm »
This is a good subject, and I appreciate good info, I don't consider any thing I've read so far as BAD info. Just varying experiences.  My cleaning habits have changed through the years, started off with an Outers cleaning kit, with screw together tubes for rifle, pistol and shot gun, as I shot more and it wore out, got some stouter rods, better brushes, both bronze and plastic, bore guides, patch jags etc... Then the chemicals, Hoppe's #9 still an all time favorite, I buy it by the quart, and took a 30 caliber ammo can and filled it half way with Hoppe's for dunking. Of course everybody knows Hoppe's will remove nickle, I don't own any nickel firearms. Then came the copper removers, most are ammonia based, I hate ammonia based cleaners, yes they remove copper, but things can occur even if your careful. Point in fact, I ruined a new rem 700 varmint, by using Sweets 16 solvent to remove the copper, and then Shooters choice to clean the Sweets out, and lube and protect the barrel, turns out these 2 chemicals don't like each other. Looked like I left steel wool in the barrel, years later there was an article about this very thing in Precision Shooter magazine, too late, but at least I found out, I was not completely at fault.

Bore cleaning now.

1) Aero Kroil to start, to remove the powder fouling, a really wet patch, let sit for 10 minutes, followed by JB Bore compound to get the metal fouling, followed by FP10 lube, rust inhibitor for storage. I also use the FP10, on the outside of all the metal, apply by hand and wipe with a clean cloth, it is slick and has great rust inhibition. This is mainly for bolt actions, probably does not matter, but I worry about the JB getting into the gas ports of semi's and working its way through the gas system.

2) Same for handguns, but maybe using the lewis lead remover, after shooting a lot of lead bullets.

3) Simple green cleaner. Most of you, probably use this for cleaning around the house, I use it for parts cleaning and in corrosive ammo fouling, which includes black powder, smells good too. Make a gallon bucket of hot water, and add 1/2 cup of simple green, disassemble the firearm enough to put the muzzle in the liquid, and a cleaning rod with brush from the back side, even the brush will create a vacuum and pull the cleaner into the bore, work it back and forth 10-12 times and the corrosive stuff is gone, the hot water lets everything evaporate quickly. I Follow with Kroil, JB maybe, and FP10.

4) Ammonia based, for really copper fouled stuff, as a smith, sometimes a customer will bring something in that is really horrible. Clean with the ammonia base cleaner until blue does not show on the patch anymore, then use the simple green formula, which will neutralize the ammonia, followed by Kroil, JB maybe and FP10.

5) Corrosion X, a local Dallas product, but man does it eat rust without eating anything else. I use it on my milling machine table, not only to remove surface rust, but it is a great rust inhibitor as well. My milling machine is in the garage, with the washing machine, in the winter when the equipment is cold, but the clothes are in the washer, the humidity is very high, and water will drip from from the mill, from condensation, the corrosion X has kept it in good shape. Now neither corrosion X nor Kroil is a good lubricant, If your drilling a hole in metal don't reach for it to put on a drill bit for lube, does not work well at all.
But get a bore that looks pitted, or surface rust, swab it good with corrosion X and let sit for half and hour and go to cleaning, it is usually surprising.

External and internal protection.

1) FP10, Kroil and Corrosion X, apply by hand and wipe off with a clean cloth all metal surfaces, scopes, rings, bolt etc...

2) Birchwood Casey Sheath, foil pouch like eyeglass cloths, you can carry these in your pocket, and if caught in the rain they are a life saver, thin enough to run under the barrel channel to get the underside without disassembly. One cloth will usually treat every available external surface.

Lubrication.

1) FP10, liquid lube and inhibitor, be careful, Some AK47's will go full auto or at least double and triple when this is used. My primary lube.

2) Action magic 2, from Brownell's, this is part of any trigger or action job I do, apply to the sear/hammer mating surfaces. On revolvers, I use it inside where the fire control parts rub on the frame, around any coil springs, I apply with a tooth pick or cotton swab.

3) sil-glyde paste, silicon Ptfe paste, very slick and meant for putting on brake pads, very high heat and will not come off, I've seen this stuff on worn out brakes, and except for the dust, looks like new. This I would use on M1, M1a op rod rollers, and op rod springs as well as AR15 buffer springs. Ak and Sks recoil springs as well. Cheap too. You can buy it at Napa.

Rimfires.

I like molybedenum disulphide spray that evaporates and leaves only the lubricant with no oils, will not attract dirt. Great for rimfire actions.

Holsters?
Silicone spray, not the lubricant, the lubricant is grease like, this is very clear and light, and will make your holster fast without losing retension. Great for lubing rubber or car antennas as well. As with anything don't over do it.

Long winded as usual, but my 02 pennies. Nothing wrong with what's been said here in my opinion, I wonder if Slide glide is Sil-glyde?
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PegLeg45

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Re: Cleaning and Lubes
« Reply #19 on: June 06, 2009, 08:23:48 pm »
M25, were pretty much on the same page, as I use most of everything (and in the same order) as you mentioned (Kroil, JB, Hoppe's, and even including the Lewis).

Only thing I use different is that I still use either Mil-spec gun oil (bought a case 20 years ago at Army-Navy store that went out of business) or Browning gun oil for storage and protection. It's worked for years. I have used Rig gun grease to lube slides several times. I've never bought any of the high-end fancy stuff.
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